Vanguardist Grenache 2023

Vanguardist-farmed Rende vineyard bush vines, around 55 years old; 60% whole bunch, with about seven weeks on skins; matured in 2200L Slavonian oak. The cool vintage has its say. Refined, fragrant and elegant, but savoury and spicy, too. Distinct nebbiolo/nerello mascalese riffs, more the latter – an increasing theme at this address. Dried cranberry and cherry, freeze-dried raspberry and orange, from dehydrated peel to the bitter orange note in amaro, chinotto, Campari … five spice, clove, green cardamom, white pepper, alpine herbs, sour plum, dried mint, pressed flowers, warm terracotta. It’s finer of feel. Is it lesser for it? Nope. It’s laden with so much flavour and etched with ultra-fine but authoritative tannins and refreshing acidity. This also opens up and holds for days, suggesting a very bright future. So individual; so stunning. 97 points, drink 2025-2038, Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion.

 Michael Corbett thinks this is as good as any Grenache he has made to date. Raspberry, cranberry, cherry, lots of exotic spice, almond and dried flowers. Medium-bodied, quite some firm grainy tannin grip with something of a dry spice feel, which is maybe a character of the vintage. Black tea, bright clean acidity, nutmeg and slightly mulchy flavours lead into a crisp finish of good length. Doesn’t have the power and concentration of some vintages, though it does have plenty of crunch and charm. 94+ points, drink 2027-2036, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.