Telmo Rodriguez 'Molino Real' Moscatel 2009 500ml

I retasted the 2009 Molino Real Old Mountain, the special bottling of their sweet Moscatel they do after seven years in barrique. They have only sold the 2005, and they bottled some experiments they did in 1997. So, I had the chance to taste all three bottlings, plus bottled and potential versions of the 2010, 2012 and 2013, of which the 2010 felt like the one with more balance and clout. This 2009 started very volatile—the wines do have high volatility—and the sensation is very noticeable when you pop and pour it, but it seems to diminish in the glass. The 2005 was also volatile, but the 1997 was completely different and had savory notes of smoked and cured meat intermixed with candied orange peel and the Chilean spice mix merken that has a smoky twist. This comes from two hectares of vines that fill one 225-liter barrel. This has a higher concentration of sugar, and time in barrel further concentrates everything. The wine should be eternal. This is very similar to what I saw in December 2017 when I last tasted it, and the wine hasn't moved much. Rated 97 Points. Drink 2019-2032. Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate.

This is the greatest sweet wine of Spain (apart from Sherry). Ian Cook, FWC.