A single-vintage Para Tawny from the great estate of Seppeltsfield. with 21 years under its belt. Medium tawny in the glass with amber flashes and notes of roasting nuts, candied citrus rinds, burnt toffee, butterscotch, brandy snaps, rancio and Christmas cake, with layers and layers of spice below. Unctuous, with head-spinning complexity and length of finish, with a seam of freshness that drives the flavours across the tongue and off into the distance. 97 points, drink by 2042, David Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion.