Nervi-Conterno Valfrena 2020

Starting in 2018, the Nervi estate is fully under the control of Roberto Conterno of the Giacomo Conterno estate in Monforte d'Alba.

Gattinara became a DOCG in 1990, but due to its size and historical inaccessibility to the market, has largely been a region for those in the know. Examples from superior vintages like 1961 or ?64, ?78, or ?96, which have occasionally been seen here, prove it is a clear rival to the best Langhe Nebbiolo. Roberto Conterno certainly thinks so, with his admiration for the capacity for Nebbiolo to generate thrilling wines from this tiny appellation of 65ha given dramatic illustration by his recent purchase of the original producer of Gattinara, Nervi. At times on recent visits to the Langhe, we have been told - ?Roberto can?t receive your visit on that day as he is in the north?? - Now we know why.

There are 20 cru vineyards in the Gattinara DOCG appellation, with Valferana, meaning ?Iron Valley?, sitting near the geographical centre of the commune at a height of 320 to 370 metres. Although it sits a little lower than Molsino, Valferana doesn?t get as much sunlight or warmth, facing predominantly west, and it is one of the steepest crus. Valferana is the usually the more austere of the two crus, at least initially, with a tightly wound core gifted by Gattinara? s porphyry-gravel soil; the 20 is a little more open and easy going. Importer's notes.

The 2020 Gattinara Valferana is beautifully lifted and floral. Gorgeous red-toned fruit, white pepper, chalk and orange peel all rush from the glass in this striking, finely-cut Gattinara. Sweet floral notes and a burst of red fruit punctuate the finish. In 2020, the Valferana is all finesse. It should be even more expressive in another few years? time. 96 Points, Antonio Galloni