Moreau-Naudet Chablis Les Pargues Vieilles Vignes 2023

Les Pargues is a Chablis lieu-dit on a ridge between the Montmains and Vosgros Premiers Crus. It has the same exposure as Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a handy site. The story goes that it was initially classified as 1er Cru (pre-AOC) before being largely abandoned during the war during the labour shortage. This meant it arguable missed out on its deserved status when the AOC was formed. True or not, locals rightly speak highly of the site: the position and thin, stony soils produce an intensely mineral wine. Moreau farms 1.8 hectares next to Domaine Servin.
The vine age in this tiny parcel (60-plus years on average) and extremely low yields (15-25hl/ha) contribute to the quality of this wine. Vinified with 30% barrels, Pargues is layered and succulent, rocky and energetic with a long, briny finish. It’s a wine that always bats well above its station. Importer’s notes.

“Issuing from three parcels of over 60-year-old vines, amounting to 1.8 hectares, Moreau-Naudet’s 2023 Chablis Pargues Vieilles Vignes sees 30% of maturation in used oak, with the remainder matured in tank. Offering notes of pear, honeysuckle and iodine, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and inviting, laden with vibrant acidity and concluding with a delicately chalky finish.” 90-91 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate.

“A more acidulated impression to this incisive aromatic. Juicy energy – it’s another step forward – none back – intense, fresh and wonderfully energetic – bravo again!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report.