Larmandier Bernier Grand Cru VV du Levant 2012
Disgorged March 2021. This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where the majority of the grapes are sourced, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines).
Both plots are located at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes, on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe and layered wines. The deep root system of the old vines combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here there is more flesh, more weight and more body.
The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar; here it is natural fermentation and malo, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least seven years in bottle on lees (nearly nine years for the 2012). This release was disgorged with only two grams per litre dosage.
“The 2012 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant is another standout in this range from Pierre and Sophie Larmandier. It possesses tremendous intensity and tons of pure power. Lemon confit, apricot, spice, marzipan and dried herbs saturate the palate in a Champagne endowed with serious concentration. The 2012 is dense, rich and full of personality. These 50-70 year-old vines confer notable complexity. The 2012 was vinified in neutral oak and bottled with dosage of two grams per liter.” 96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The 2012 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant was tightly wound when I tasted it last year, but today it is really beginning to show all its cards. Delivering a complex bouquet of orange oil and pear mingled with notions of freshly baked bread, white flowers, marzipan and beeswax, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, racy acids and chalky structure. Powerful and precise, it concludes with a long, mineral finish.” 97 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate