Giant Steps Applejack Pinot Noir 2023
Halliday's Wine Companion 2025 Pinot Noir of the Year
Pinot Noir of the Year. Named after the Applejack eucalypts that surround the vineyard, which was planted at Gladysdale in 1997 by Ray Guerin. Seven clones comprising 114, 115, MV6, D2V5, D5V15, Pommard and Abel. Whole bunches (40%) and 20-25% new French barriques. 2022 was a hard act to follow, but this superb wine gives it a shake. Exotic, aromatic and pure with its bouquet of wild strawberries, dark cherries, quince, spices and flowers. Densley packed, this saturates the palate, but, as always, it's light on its feet at the same time. Seamless tannins round out another benchmark for what's already a benchmark wine. Drink 2024-2030. 98 points. Philip Rich, Halliday's Wine Companion.
I tasted this wine a few months ago and loved it from the first sip. I have it on the desk now and there it is again, a glimmer in the glass. This wine is no one's fool. It's a pure expression of its place in the world and that place happens to be complex. It's a cool wine with straight trees of tannin, perfumed red and black berries, lines of spice and echoes of woodsmoke. It's a forest of a wine, a bit lush, a bit wet, a bit woody; verdant. At all times, as you drink it, the fruit comes at you like a swell. When you swallow this wine it flares out like you've reached the lookout at the end of a long walk. It's a good wine. And it's more than that. Drink 2025-2036+. 96 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.