Cascina Delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco 2017

Biodynamic. The Rio Sordo site typically delivers more powerful, firm wines, and this is certainly the case here. Fruit swings between the red and black fruit spectrums, with a dark undercurrent of ash and tar sitting below the prettier primary fruit that is on display. As Ned put it, this has “more authoritative, burly tannins” which is certainly the case. When compared to the Tre Stelle, this is perhaps in need of a touch of time in the cellar before being at its best. Everything is present, though, to deliver a wonderful Barbaresco over time. – Ches Cook, FWC.

I think about 90 bottles were brought into the country, and while I’m familiar with the Tre Stelle, I’ve not tried the Rio Sordo offering until now. They don’t make much of it. A producer noted for their elegance and restraint, by me at least. A bit of lift here, but no problem, red fruits, liquorice, floral notes and wee bit of spice. It’s tight, quite ferrous and chalky, a slightly bony and tense feel, but with ripe squishy red fruit to soften. Fresh for a 2017, its brightness is appealing, some almond paste flavour comes through on a pretty long finish. Rio Sordo does well in warmer years, I reckon, and certainly they’ve turned out a very good wine here. Drink 2022 – 2028+. 94+ Points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front.