Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru 'Santenots' 2022

Les Santenots is one of Volnay's top 1er Cru sites. The clay-rich soils give wines of perfumed depth and silken structure. To give some idea of the quality, we asked Leroux many years ago if there were one vineyard in Volnay he would particularly like to work with. Without hesitation, he replied Santenots, mentioning that he buys this vineyard?s wine from his friend Dominique Lafon each year. Of course, he then went on to speak about Rugiens and Caillerets (the village's most revered sites-and a dream that finally came true in 2018). Leroux's Santenots is drawn from one hectare of 70-year-old estate-owned vines that are farmed organically. This was one of the first vineyards to be picked in 2022, and 30% of bunches were used in the ferment. Referring to the iron notes that the clay from this vineyard gives, Leroux calls his Santenots a 'full-on' reflection of Volnay; 'Santenots should be like this. I like the grip it has.' The 2022 is a deep, fleshy, spicy Pinot that is generous, ripe and long. It should certainly age well.

There is also elegance and finesse to this wine that are genuinely charming. The wine opens with ripe plum and currant notes and hints of earth and leather. The texture is more tannic and full-bodied than previous vintages, but this should be drinking well in a few years. 93 points, Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.

?One third whole-bunch from a parcel next to the camp site. Firm tannins, slightly austere. Vigor and some rigor, too (pH 3.55). Punchy finish. ?Santenots should be like this. I like the grip it has.? Slight fennel bitterness to finish.? 94-95 points, Sarah Marsh MW, The World of Fine Wine.