Benjamin Leroux Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes Dessus’ 2023

Following the 2017 harvest, Leroux managed something of a coup when he won a hard-fought tender to acquire these vines. The purchase came with a small selection of village plots (including Clos du Village), but the real prizes were well-sited parcels in Volnay Santenots (Les Plures), Meursault-Blagny and this small piece of the Premier Cru Charmes lying directly beneath Clos des Perrières. It’s a sliver of 1988-planted vines in the vineyard's upper (Dessus) portion—a section singled out since the 1830s as the finest part of Les Charmes. This is because the slope is steeper and the soil lighter and stonier than in the lower Charmes-Dessous. The wine it produces is special and now in great hands! Importer’s notes. Importer’s notes.

“Pale in colour, with significant weight on the nose. But nothing compared to what the palate delivers, kept lively by a little wash of lemon. The fruit absolutely dominates the middle of the palate, then carries through to a long finish, with just a little warmth, even though picked on 31st August. Drink from 2032-2038.” 93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.

“Paler than the Genevrières in color, this nonetheless has a more refined and more complex nose. It is archetypal Meursault with pear nectar, apple sauce and oodles of spice rack scents. The sleek package is lithe and lifted with engaging—even electric—intensity. The ongoing, patinated finish attests to its age-worthiness.”

94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report.