Arpepe Valtellina Superiore 'Sassella Stella Retica' 2022
I need to catch myself when i say that the overall 'stamp' of the producer is one of utter elegance, prettiness, intoxicating perfumes and fantastic fruit purity and definition. The reason for this is because there is no stamp at all: these wines are as untouched as wines can be, with the pure red-fruited flavours and alpine freshness the most apparent features, with fine mouthfeel and masked tannin bringing further integrity. While prettiness defines the wines, they have complexity throughout: brown spice, Campari botanicals, pomegranate and orange peel, the list goes on...
We looked at a bracket of 2022 Superiore wines, followed by the 2018 Riservas. To explain, in a single vintage, Arpepe will either make Superiore wines from the Valtellina sub-regions of Grumello, Sassella and Inferno or in excellent vintages, they will make these wines in Riserva format.
The wines of Grumello tend to be a touch rounder and more open and expressive, while Sassella gives a sense of minerality with more austerity in the mid-palate, largely derived from the poorer soils of this part of Valtellina. These too come recommended. Ches Cook, FWC.