Arpepe Valtellina Superiore Riserva 'Inferno Sesto Canto' 2018

I need to catch myself when i say that the overall 'stamp' of the producer is one of utter elegance, prettiness, intoxicating perfumes and fantastic fruit purity and definition. The reason for this is because there is no stamp at all: these wines are as untouched as wines can be, with the pure red-fruited flavours and alpine freshness the most apparent features, with fine mouthfeel and masked tannin bringing further integrity. While prettiness defines the wines, they have complexity throughout: brown spice, Campari botanicals, pomegranate and orange peel, the list goes on...

In both brackets, Inferno was my winner (if I had to pick one). Inferno, and Arpepe’s single vineyard ‘Sesto Canto’ within this sub-region is the warmest site they work, with a southerly aspect and steep terracing. The terraces are built on rocks which soak up sunlight and warmth during the day and transmit it back into the vineyard well into the evening, even after the sun has disappeared. It aids ripeness, which juxtaposes Arpepe’s delicate touch. It’s a combination that works beautifully, resulting in a complex, elegant wine. The 2018 Riserva had enhanced, ballooning aromatics, huge expanse of flavour and texture across the palate, fine texture and a sense of ‘completeness’ to it, aided by the fact that it is 8 years old and in a great drinking window. Ches Cook, FWC.