Aphelion 'Brini' Chenin Blanc 2024

This may be McLaren Vale’s, indeed the country’s, top-priced chenin blanc. But why not? We do tend to have a glass ceiling for certain grapes, especially white, and chenin is as noble a grape as any. From 50-year-old vines on the cooler Brini vineyard in Blewitt Springs; only free-run juice was fermented in a second-fill Stockinger 500L puncheon, with fortnightly bâttonage. Beautifully refined and elegant, oak a calm chaperone, with golden apple, white pear, fennel seed, a little oatmeal and a maritime thing, lit up with oyster shells and sea breezes. It’s chiselled, mineral, subtly textural and electrified by ripe, natural acidity. Lovely. Only 600 bottles made. 96 points, drink 2025-2036, Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion.