Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown 'Thorley' Chardonnay 2023

White florals, notes of crunchy unripe stone fruits, carambola play against almond liqueur and some more complexing savoury notes. The palate has precise linear acidity and absolutely sits in that long, minerally, fine cool climate modern Australian Chardonnay style.

Partial solids, wild ferment, mlf, 10 months' maturation in oak (30% new), five months in tank. All the restraint and refinement of the uber-cool, upper Beechworth area that VS&B calls home. There's an edge of granitic minerality underscoring citrus, white peach and nectarine, with honeysuckle florals and fine spice. Displays precision and purity. The tautness of the cooler vintage nicely gives way to an even, creamy smoothness across the palate and subtle, nutty oak. Has the ability to shine brighter still with time in bottle. 95 points, drink 2025-2033, Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion.

“Hewn from vineyards around Beechworth, a regional blast of chardy. Spot on. So drinkable, so delicious. Cool refrains of saline minerality, alpine herbs, more green apple and grapefruit in its restrained and refreshing way. Touches of stone fruit, yeah, maybe, but gentle. It’s a tightly wound, vibrant and fresh feeling chardonnay that leans into its inherent regional restraint well. A delight to drink, high refreshment factor in tow. We good.” Awarded 93 points by Mike Bennie, for The Wine Front.