La Rogerie Le Bourg/Sud Grand Cru NV

Last year, I wrote of my excitement when I tasted the first releases from La Rogerie in Flavigny, and this year's wines only confirm that my enthusiasm wasn't misplaced. This label is the work of a young couple, Fran?ois Petit (from Champagne) and Justine Boxler (from Alsace), who started out with 0.70 hectares in 2015, gradually taking over Fran?ois's family domaine (they also produce wine in Alsace with vines from Justine's side). The estate's patrimony is enviable: Chardonnay vines planted in the 1950s, mostly in Avize, using the massal selections of the epoch and never replanted. Their first years were dedicated to restoring the vineyards to health: no more herbicides, de-compacting the soils, encouraging biodiversity, changing trellising?the sort of good stewardship, in short, that is hopefully familiar by now to readers of these pages. Fruit is picked at physiological maturity and vinification is in wood, followed by disgorgement with minimal dosage?all that's required, given the vinous style. Lovers of intensely flavoured, artisanal Champagne from passionate growers should make every effort to secure a few bottles.

William Kelley | The Wine Advocate

Grapes: 100% Chardonnay

Massale selection Avize Grand Cru

Chalk, 50-70 cm deep

Aged in 228 & 400L French oak (new through 3-4 years' age), along with reserve wine aged in 15hL foudre.

Disgorged: January 2024; 2g/L dosage