Franz Hirtzberger Riesling 'Steinterrassen' Federspiel 2022

'Still a little shy, this is a sleek, but very well-structured dry riesling. It reminds me of the Wachau wines I tasted the first time I visited the region in 1988, and in this sense you could call it traditional. Discreet citrusy fruit with a hint of yellow peach. Plenty of structure on the barely medium-bodied palate. Very crisp finish for a modern Austrian dry riesling. Drink or hold.' 92 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com.