Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner 'Loibner' Federspiel 2023

One of my favourite Grüners, not least because of the crazy label. You put this on the table in front of non-wine people and they say ‘What the f*ck is this!?’ I say this wine smells of tarragon because it’s often put on the grilled chicken that our dog, Lloyd, eats. And that’s happening now, so it’s maybe front of mind. If I believed in reincarnation, I reckon coming back as an English Cocker Spaniel would not be a downgrade. Just saying. Importer: Cellarhand.

Ripe grapefruit, apple, tarragon, celery and a dusting of white pepper. It’s fleshy and ripe, apple and stone fruit, still that zesty citrus thing, a bit waxy, some umami characters, tangerine and mint. Love the crushed rock texture, some kohlrabi and spice, with a juicy and gently bitter finish of excellent length. Yum. Outstanding. 94 points, drink 2024 to 2030+, Gary Walsh, the Winefront.