Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown

White florals, notes of crunchy unripe stone fruits, carambola play against almond liqueur and some more complexing savoury notes. The palate has precise linear acidity and absolutely sits in that long, minerally, fine cool climate modern Australian Chardonnay style.

Partial solids, wild ferment, mlf, 10 months' maturation in oak (30% new), five months in tank. All the restraint and refinement of the uber-cool, upper Beechworth area that VS&B calls home. There's an edge of granitic minerality underscoring citrus, white peach and nectarine, with honeysuckle florals and fine spice. Displays precision and purity. The tautness of the cooler vintage nicely gives way to an even, creamy smoothness across the palate and subtle, nutty oak. Has the ability to shine brighter still with time in bottle. 95 points, drink 2025-2033, Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion.

“Hewn from vineyards around Beechworth, a regional blast of chardy. Spot on. So drinkable, so delicious. Cool refrains of saline minerality, alpine herbs, more green apple and grapefruit in its restrained and refreshing way. Touches of stone fruit, yeah, maybe, but gentle. It’s a tightly wound, vibrant and fresh feeling chardonnay that leans into its inherent regional restraint well. A delight to drink, high refreshment factor in tow. We good.” Awarded 93 points by Mike Bennie, for The Wine Front.

A vibrant deep terracotta hue, perhaps a hint of dried blood. The nose gives dried rose petal and dried sweet herbs (lavender, sage) then tobacco leaf, brandied prune and comfy leather. In the mouth the wine is tactile and medium-bodied with ropes of jutey tannin enfolding red plum, tart cherry fruits and cold tea to length.

“A cool vintage in a cool wine region certainly showcases the naturally high tannins and acidity in a grape like nebbiolo. All of this makes the 2022, a good wine for further ageing. Pepper, sage, thyme, tomato leaf and earth mingle with cranberry and sour cherry aromas. Brings a strong herbal presence to the glass together with red fruits, and is structured firmly in savoury tannins.” by Jeni Port, for Halliday Wine Companion.

Light cherry hue. A creature from this very coldest of seasons, this carries aromas of red apple skin, raspberry and sour cherry. Then comes a twist of orange peel and the typically beguiling, very Brunnen site specific mix of spices: angelica, fennel seed and even a little liquorice root leaning into more bark and forest floor-derived autumnal notes. The palate is light as per the season dictates but built deceptively through vine age, low cropping levels and natural acidity. More of the light raspberry and hints of sweet wood spice, and an earthen tannin persistence. Winemakers note.

Jeni Port (Wine Companion) has it right when she says, "so good on so many levels." Last year i noted the Syrah being the dark horse in the S&B range and that hasn't changed. It's a vibrant and elegant medium bodied wine mixing red fruit appeal with darker grumblings of blackberry, jamon and charred meat. Black pepper spice adds further complexity. Such a good wine. - Ches Cook, FWC.

So good on so many levels. Delights the senses with its vision of a fragrant, elegant, spice-laced syrah showcasing the beauty of a leading cool-climate region. Complex in toasted spices, pepper, red cherry, plum, and briar running long across a smoothly textured, well-composed palate. Great balance. The cork with the words 'fidus in silvis silentibus' ? faith in the silent forests ? relates to the theories of Viktor Schaiberger, Austrian naturalist and philosopher. Drink to 2034. 96 Points, Jeni Port, Halliday's Wine Companion.