Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown
The partnership of Tess Brown & Jeremy Schmolzer are making some of the most unique and satisfying expressions of Nebbiolo, Pinot, Syrah, Riesling and Chardonnay in Victoria at the moment. The wines all share a distinct sub-alpine line of freshness, careful attention to detail with the ability to develop complexity and nuance in the cellar.
Excerpt below from Masters at Work - Beechworth article, written by Mitchell Milicich featured in the Oracle Newspaper 2025
Fifteen minutes up the slope from Beechworth is the tiny and charming
village of Stanley where you will find the off-grid home, winery and Thorley
vineyard of Tess and Jeremy, the partnership behind Vignerons Schmolzer &
Brown. They planted vines in 2014 in the marginal sub alpine conditions at
approximately 700m ASL.
Tess and Jeremy are both very affable and intelligent people with a keen focus,
producing cool climate wines of seemingly effortless elegance and aromatic
lift. Inspired by the balance of German Riesling and the poise of high altitude
Italian Nebbiolo the couple have an articulate vision for what they want to
create. Both have experience working vintages overseas, and have deep
knowledge of the world of wine. They are strong voices in the Australian wine
discourse especially around the changing climate and the ramifications for
growing grapes sustainably.
Nestled amongst apple and cherry orchards their Thorley home block and
neighbour’s Brunnen vineyard from which they source grapes, are notable
in the savoury and delicate flavours coaxed from the vines. Their Brunnen
Pinot Noir, planted to sparkling clonal material gives a sultry and intense
orange amaro infused note, their Thorley Syrah verging toward autumnal
connotations, twig, dark spice and a crisp alpine edge. The duo also make a
sensational Chardonnay and Nebbiolo that are chiselled, mineral and lithe, all
shaped by well draining, shale based soils and a guiding hand in the winery.
This is not hard to imagine as what Tess and Jeremy have created is at the
periphery of the Australian context. Their wines challenge preconceptions and
offer excitement to an adventurous palate. If you haven't had the pleasure of
tasting these wines, they should definitely be on your list.
Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown 'Thorley' Nebbiolo 2022
A vibrant deep terracotta hue, perhaps a hint of dried blood. The nose gives dried rose petal and dried sweet herbs (lavender, sage) then tobacco leaf, brandied prune and comfy leather. In the mouth the wine is tactile and medium-bodied with ropes of jutey tannin enfolding red plum, tart cherry fruits and cold tea to length.
“A cool vintage in a cool wine region certainly showcases the naturally high tannins and acidity in a grape like nebbiolo. All of this makes the 2022, a good wine for further ageing. Pepper, sage, thyme, tomato leaf and earth mingle with cranberry and sour cherry aromas. Brings a strong herbal presence to the glass together with red fruits, and is structured firmly in savoury tannins.” by Jeni Port, for Halliday Wine Companion.
Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown 'Brunnen' Pinot Noir 2023
Light cherry hue. A creature from this very coldest of seasons, this carries aromas of red apple skin, raspberry and sour cherry. Then comes a twist of orange peel and the typically beguiling, very Brunnen site specific mix of spices: angelica, fennel seed and even a little liquorice root leaning into more bark and forest floor-derived autumnal notes. The palate is light as per the season dictates but built deceptively through vine age, low cropping levels and natural acidity. More of the light raspberry and hints of sweet wood spice, and an earthen tannin persistence. Winemakers note.
Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown Obstgarten Riesling K 2024
Off-dry riesling. From Whitlands in King Valley. 145 dozen made.
Beautiful wine. Balanced on a pinhead. Green and red apples, lime and lemon, a sorbet aspect, a run of cooked apple. It has line, flavour and length, and it could hardly be more delicious. Hooked, I was, from the first sip. 94 Points, drink 2025-2030+, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
