The Beauty of Sub-Alpine Viticulture: Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown in Victoria’s High Country

Some of our favourite domestic releases of the year have come from Tess and Jeremy of Schmolzer & Brown in Beechworth, Victoria.

Tess and Jeremy’s wines are great examples the sort of wine we love to drink. These are wines that are tense with energy and life, uninhibited by winemaking techniques (e.g the heavy use of oak) and expressive of both their grape variety and region. These are wines born from the vineyard and not from the winery, where organic viticultural techniques are used to farm fruit from their home block Thorley and from a neighbouring block called Brunnen. At both sites, we’re talking about cool-climate, sub-alpine viticulture and relatively high elevations for grape growing in Australia (above 700m above elevation).

We have really liked the Schmolzer & Brown wines and their striped back, no frills approach to winemaking from day one, but with the 2021 vintage, have they just kicked into another gear? This release certainly suggests so. Whether we’re talking about the light but immensely detailed Nebbiolo, the electric Chardonnay or the drop-dead gorgeous Pinot Noir, these are must-try wines for those who are yet to explore the offerings from this producer. And the prices are beyond fair for the high quality they offer. These come highly recommended from all of us at Five Way Cellars. - Ches Cook, FWC.