Fedellos ‘Conasbrancas’ Blanco 2022

The cloudy, barrel fermented and aged white 2022 Conasbrancas was produced with the grapes from a number of field blends on both sides of the Bibei River, in Manzaneda and Larouco. It feels quite wild and raw but graceful and stylized. In 2021, they changed they as they produce this wine; they do a short maceration, and after three or four days, they press and ferment. This year, it’s unusally cloudy because it was a year with lots of protein and they do not filter or clarify. But the wine is serious and vibrant, medium bodied with a moderate 12% alcohol, with very good freshness and great balance, despite coming from a very dry (more than warm) year, with a very short harvesting window. It feels quite different from previous years and they feel it shows more the character; it has. an austere stony sensation in the palate, naked, without the influence from the skins, keeping the verticality. Delicious and characterful. 94 points, Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate, Nov 2023.