Oddero Barolo Riserva 'Vigna Rionda' 2016

This is the top-shelf wine from Mariacristina Oddero and her family. The 2016 Barolo Riserva Vignarionda is magnificent on all fronts. I am especially struck by the bouquet that delivers never-ending nuances with playful menthol tones, fresh violet and licorice that frame elegant forest berry and blood orange. The aromas offer beautiful energy and brightness. The wine is absolutely fine on the palate with delicately drying tannin and a very long and silky texture. It shows a solid, firm quality that bodes well for its future evolution. The mouthfeel is lightweight but enduring. Fruit comes from an excellent south-facing site in Serralunga d'Alba at 360 meters in elevation. Mariacristina is joined by her children in the winery, and they prefer to age in large Austrian oak casks for 24 months before putting the wine in cement before it goes into glass. Finding one of the 3,500 bottles made is worth the effort. 100 points, Drink 2025-2055, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate.

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with oak-driven spice, leather, forest floor and baked plum. Firm and austere, the full-bodied palate features dried cherry, blood orange, anisette and crushed mint set against tightly woven, close-grained tannins. Give it a few more years to fully unwind. Abv: 15% 97 points, Drink 2028-2041, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.