Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 'Lavaux St Jacques' 2022
Very limited. Blended from five parcels across 1.2 hectares of this vineyard, this wine is certainly the benchmark Lavaux St-Jacques. It’s also the signature cuvée of the Mortet estate. Lavaux is always the last site to be harvested due to its cool location. Even if it sits right next door to Clos St-Jacques, it does not have the protection of the high walls, and so finds itself open to the cool, northern airstreams that flow down from the valley above (Combe de Lavaux).
Mortet’s yields were just 25 hl/ha in 2022, and these grapes have produced a wine with significant depth and power. All the fruit was destemmed (roughly 30% is done by hand, leaving perfectly intact berries), and only 30% new oak was used this year. This is an incredible example of this terroir (even by Mortet’s high standards) and a wine that will live for decades.
“The bottom part was hailed and therefore destemmed, while the pedicel treatment could be used above, making one third overall. Anyway, a fresh cool terroir doesn’t need much. A slightly darker fruit on the nose, along with some white pepper. Raspberry fruit, lighter and finer at the back. Very cheerful. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.” 92-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
“The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques exhibits notes of cherries, strawberry conserve, rose petals and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and succulent palate that's sweet and demonstrative, with what would appear to be a rather ripe, forward style this year.” 91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate.