Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’ 2023

There’s an old saying in Burgundy that goes: “If you haven’t drunk Caillerets, you don't know Volnay.” Benjamin Leroux could hardly conceal his excitement when he first told us he had access to a parcel of vines in this famous site, which he calls the “King of Volnay.” That excitement has certainly been borne out in the brilliant new releases.
Les Caillerets is a beautifully exposed terroir that sits mid-slope, on the border with Meursault. It’s exploited by important growers such as d’Angerville, Lafarge and Pousse d’Or. The 14-odd-hectare vineyard is subdivided into three lieux-dits, with Leroux now farming 0.5 hectares of Pinot Fin (planted in 1945, 1985 and the late ‘90s) in the area known as Caillerets-Dessus. Crafted with a high proportion of whole bunches (80%—only the fruit from the youngest vines was destemmed), the wine aged in roughly one-quarter new oak. Hedonistic indeed, it also has the class and balance of a Grand Cru wine. Importer’s notes.

“More than half whole bunch. A fine imperial purple with a beautifully rich floral nose, peonies more than roses, deliciously uplifted with a glowing generosity but adequate acidity, natural, which it needs for keeping the balance. Maybe the whole bunch proportion is driving this, but this wine also fully delivers the hedonistic side of Caillerets.” 93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.