Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru 'Clos de la Cave des Ducs' 2023

One of the signature cuvées of the Leroux stable, Clos de la Cave des Ducs is a 0.64-hectare monopole owned by the family of Leroux’s right-hand man, Jean-Charles Carré. It’s a wine that was rarely seen before Leroux started bottling this wine in 2007. It’s Volnay’s highest 1er Cru and has fine, light soils that typically produce wines of great delicacy. The vines are up to 80 years old (an average age of 50 years) and include some 20-year-old mass-selection vines from Comte Armand’s Clos des Epeneaux. The site is managed biodynamically and with meticulous care—Carré and Leroux test their most progressive viticulture here. Leroux has noted that recent harvests have seen the Clos move towards an even finer, more floral expression, and this is precisely what you get in 2023. Fermented with 10% whole bunches, expect a striking synthesis of silky, floral-edged fruit with terrific freshness and drive. Importer’s notes.

“Everything about this wine is intense—each element of the structure seems to be bolded, italicized and underscored. That said, it all works together remarkably well, even if—for me—the palate feel and organization overtook the aromas at the moment. But, there is extra-dimensional depth of expression on the palate, too. Black plums, warm tobacco, turned earth, savory spice and warm figs give exceptional complexity.” 94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report.

“The 2023 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs 1er Cru contains around 10% whole bunch. This articulates more terroir and Pinot expression than to the slightly ripe Mitans. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine tannins, crisp acidity and a hint of orange rind on the finish. This is promising.” 91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous.