Benjamin Leroux Meursault 1er Cru 'La Piece Sous Le Bois' 1950 2022 Magnum
This is the first bottling from Ben's eldest vines in La Piece Sous Le Bois, planted in 1950. At the top of the slope, these vines are particularly low-yielding, and this fruit has always been vinified separately, even if 2022 is the first vintage to be given its own bottling. This wine goes some way to explaining why this terroir was labelled Blagny-Montrachet in the 1920s! Only bottled in magnum this year, the stunning palate has more power and a tighter, stonier texture than the regular cuvee, as well as a long, saline close. Importer's notes.
The bouquet is a little more discreet but is quite fine, indeed very refined. Then a much fleshier attack on the palate, generous, perhaps more alcohol. In fact, both cuvees are about 13% alcohol. More sumptuous, more cashmere. 92-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
There are two barrels. It's super-intense and focused. Straight and deep but tight and channeled. Laser-sharp, with savory freshness and length. 93 points, Sarah Marsh MW, The World of Fine Wine.