Benjamin Leroux Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Champs’ 2023

This vineyard was historically blended into Leroux’s Gevrey villages, yet it has been so good for the last handful of vintages that Leroux was tempted to bottle it separately. Finally, he succumbed, bottling five barrels under their own label. Close to the Brochon borderline, En Champs sits high up on the slope, just beneath the 1er Cru Champeaux at the northern end of what is sometimes called the ‘Côte Saint-Jacques.’ Some followers of Domaine Denis Mortet will have had outstanding examples of this high-grown terroir in the past. The soils here are very stony with red clays, and the cooling winds and altitude moderate the climate. Leroux’s example is a deeper, more serious and more ferrous wine than his village bottlings. Yes, there’s depth, but also lovely, high-toned fruit, loads of spice, and very fine tannins on the finish. It fermented with 40% bunches. Importer’s notes.

“Mostly destemmed, the 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs is well defined and a little purer than the Village, with touches of iodine coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied and more cohesive than the Village. Clean and precise, it concludes with a tensile finish. Excellent.” 91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous.

“En Champs has been made with 40% whole bunch vinification compared to 20% for the regular village wine. A heady fresh purple colour. There is an extra generosity of plum fruit across the palate, then a few more tannins, but with fine length and structure. An additional degree of class here without a doubt. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.” 91-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.