Mount Mary 2017 Vintage

Mount Mary was one of the foremost pioneers of the rebirth of the Yarra Valley after 50 years without viticultural activity, and right from the outset produced wines of rare finesse and purity. Today its star shines brighter than that of any of the 174 wineries in the Yarra Valley. The late founder, Dr John Middleton, practised near-obsessive attention to detail long before that phrase slid into oenological vernacular. He relentlessly strove for perfection, and all four of the wines in the original Mount Mary portfolio achieved just that (within the context of each vintage). Charming grandson Sam Middleton is equally dedicated. An all-encompassing recent tasting of every vintage of these four wines left me in no doubt he is making even better wines since assuming the winemaker mantle in June 2011. Moreover, after protracted trials, two Rhone Valley-inspired wines have been released, looking to the future yet also honouring John's late wife, Marli Russell. Winery of the Year 2018 Wine Companion. – James Halliday

Mount Mary Triolet 2017

yarra valley, australia

$105

There are certain years when Triolet really sings, and it’s probably the cooler ones, though I may be wrong. Anyway, they age beautifully, of that much I’m certain. A top shelf Triolet. So discreet and stylish, yet flavoursome too. Lemon and lime, white pear, fennel and aromatic herbs, floral perfume too, some spiced vanilla biscuit. A subtle gloss to it, but all about line, length and flinty texture, there may be a little guava, pine-lime and apple, but citrus is the main player. Subtle grassy flavour, but nothing overt; it’s a seasoning component here. Brine and crunch to the aftertaste. Impeccable. Drink: 2019 - 2035. 96 points – Gary Wash, The Wine Front

This has a very rich and complex fruit spectrum in 2017; everything is ripe and offering plenty of primary fruit with lemons, peaches and melon in abundance. The palate has a super plush, sleek and gently fleshy feel with a wealth of yellow-citrus and white-peach flavor. Great spine of acidity too. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 points – Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com June 2019

Mount Mary Chardonnay 2017

yarra valley, australia

$125

I think the general release date is sometime around October, though best get these done quickly, as I’m off to Italy again on Friday. We don’t want that pesky Mattinson interfering with the rightful work of The Chardonnay Master™. It’s a tight one in 2017, that’s for sure. Lime, lemon and lemon curd, vanilla yoghourt, almond, just a little stuck match. It’s racy but flavoursome, bites down pretty firmly, and doesn’t really let go. Intense quartz-like texture and juicy lime acidity pulses through citrus and tangy pineapple, the finish long and slightly spicy, all chalk and mouth-watering. Drink: 2021 - 2030+. 96 points – Gary Wash, The Wine Front

There’s a complex, mealy and savory side here with a very assertive white-peach, mango and nectarine edge, too. The palate offers intense flavor with intense freshness and the grilled hazelnuts and peaches hold long. Drink now. Screw cap. 95 points – Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com June 2019