Nervi-Conterno Molsino 2020

Starting in 2018, the Nervi estate is fully under the control of Roberto Conterno of the Giacomo Conterno estate in Monforte d'Alba.

Gattinara became a DOCG in 1990, but due to its size and historical inaccessibility to the market, has largely been a region for those in the know. Examples from superior vintages like 1961 or ?64, ?78, or ?96, which have occasionally been seen here, prove it is a clear rival to the best Langhe Nebbiolo. Roberto Conterno certainly thinks so, with his admiration for the capacity for Nebbiolo to generate thrilling wines from this tiny appellation of 65ha given dramatic illustration by his recent purchase of the original producer of Gattinara, Nervi. At times on recent visits to the Langhe, we have been told - ?Roberto can?t receive your visit on that day as he is in the north?? - Now we know why.

Located on the western border of the DOCG, sitting up at 420 metres, Molsino means soft and smooth in local dialect. It is the largest of the vineyards and faces mostly in a classic south-west exposure. It has a natural amphitheatre shape, which helps retain plenty of perfect Nebbiolo ripening warmth ? required at these cooler areas. Fermentation and maceration is exactly the same for both single cru wines, gentle destemming and crushing with maceration for 3-4 weeks afterwards. Aging is for 40 months in large oak, but with sizes that vary up to 76hl.

Molsino vs Valferana, though tightly wound on release, perhaps even more so than Valferana, once it opens up, Molsino can be lush by comparison. Roberto describes 20 as smooth and appreciable, with immediate allure.

The 2020 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding Gattinara. Black cherry, plum, liquorice, crushed rocks, lavender and spice all race across the palate. A wine of sombre intensity, the 2020 is built for the long haul. Deep and beguiling, firm tannins enshroud the long, building finish. 97 Points, Antonio Galloni.