Gunderloch Fenchelberg Riesling GG 2020
The Fenchelberg is positioned right on the border between the Rothenberg and Pettenthal vineyards and symbolises their link. In this vineyard natural springs come to the surface, a real rarity in the very dry "Roter Hang". These sources have been blocked by the Flurbereinigung (land consolidation) and have now found their way back to supply the vines with stable and essential humidity. Fenchelberg draws slightly back from the main flank of the hillside and creates an early-shaded amphitheatre-like setting. This special plot is confined by trees and even reeds, which create even more shade and let the grapes ripe more slowly. The grapes for the first vintage of Fenchelberg GG were picked on the last day of harvest after a two-week break.
Ever since the Hasselbach family has worked on Rothenberg this plot has played an essential role in their top wines. In the past it featured in the Rothenberg Auslese but as the climate got drier and noble rot did not appear as before, Johannes Hasselbach realised that the plot could be home to a top-class dry wine with unique character: Cooler than Rothenberg, spicier than Pettenthal.
From the highest terraces in the most southern part of the Rothenberg that was designated as single vineyard until 1971, the 2020 Fenchelberg GG (Versteigerung) exhibits clear, deep, intense and concentrated yet elegant and coolish ripe fruit with a delicate spiciness on the nose. Dense, rich and juicy on the tightly woven palate, this is an intense, creamy-textured yet firmly structured, tensioned and promising Riesling with lots of salt and phenolic grip on the salty and powerful finish. This Fenchelberg was picked three weeks later than the Rothenberg GG. Due to the good water supply of the terraces of the Fenchelberg, it has always been the source for the world-famous Gunderloch noble sweet wines from the Rothenberg, such as Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). In the past few years, Johannes Hasselbach has gained a new perspective on the Fenchelberg and no longer harvests Auslesen here. Instead, he sees the site as another top vineyard just for dry Riesling. 320 bottles of the 2020 plus some large formats were filled. The wine has the power, tension and complexity of a Clos Saint Hune and is to be auctioned in November. 13.2% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted two times in Wiesbaden at the end of August 2021. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate September 2021
Very cool and delicate with a wide spectrum of wild-herb and berry aromas. Sleek, precise and polished, this expands dramatically as it flows over the palate. The very long, spicy and mineral finish makes a serious statement. The first vintage of this wine, which comes from the highest-altitude section of the Rothenberg site of Nierstein. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com August 2021