Yohan Lardy Chenas 'Deschamps' 2023

You never heard of the appellation Chenas before? This is a good reason to learn the name, because it has terrific red-fruit character on the nose and front palate, then comes an intense stony minerality on the very focused medium-bodied palate. None of that quite prepares you for the wave of wild blackberry character that washes over you at the super-long and refreshing finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. 96 points, James Suckling.