Vincent Dancer Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2022

Dancer has a minuscule 0.10 of a hectare of Chevalier-Montrachet (planted in 1952) that sits in the top left-hand corner of the vineyard—part of the slope on the same elevation as Le Montrachet. It’s worked by horse, trained on posts and spur pruned, and the Dancers make only one or two barriques per year, reflecting the tiny yields. We only receive a few bottles each year, and 2023 is no exception. Dancer’s Chevalier doesn’t see any new oak these days, allowing the natural fruit power and overt minerality to express itself unadorned. If you’re reading this note, you’re one of the lucky (very) few.

The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is more flamboyant than the Perrières, revealing aromas of pear, honeycomb and musky peach mingled with white flowers and bee pollen. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's bright, pure and saline, with a seamless, complete profile. Right now, I'm inclined to give the Perrières the nod as Dancer's finest white this year, but that could change in bottle. 94-96 points, William Kelley, the Wine Advocate.