Francois Chidaine Montlouis 'Les Bournais' 2021

Normally $120 NOW $105/$94.50

Settled on a limestone plateau above the Loire, the chalky soils of Les Bournais would not be out of place on Vouvray's Premiere Cote (home to Clos de Bourg and Le Mont). Unlike most of Montlouis-which is on clay and flint-this four-hectare vineyard is on a pocket of clay and Bournais limestone, from which it takes its name. Planted in 1998, the vines gently follow the contours of the land, right to the edge of a chalky precipice. The roots have just 35 centimetres of clay soils to burrow through before hitting the limestone bedrock, perhaps one reason we always see a distinctive smokiness in the aromas of these wines.

When tasted alongside the Clos de Breuil and Les Choisilles cuvees, this is clearly an altogether more 'Vouvray' expression of Montlouis, with a powdery, chalky structure that reflects its soils and location. Chidaine now raises this wine in a single 1,000-litre untoasted oval made specifically for this wine. It's hard to say what effect this will have on its evolution, but one thing is for sure: the new vintage is a hair-raiser. Francois Chidaine seldom comments on his wines during a tasting, but here he broke with tradition: 'I like it a lot'. Translation: Buy what you can. This is a sensational Loire Chenin of exceptional intensity and length of flavour, humming with energy and chalky, limestone cut. Importer's notes.

'The 2021 Les Bournais is unsurprisingly tighter than in previous vintages due to the cooler season compared with 2018, 2019 and 2020. It remains fragrant, exuding ripe peach, mango, and mandarin segments. What's most evident about this wine is its huge linearity: there's a tight corset around this wine, ensuring it pierces your palate like a well-made paper airplane. A delightful chalky texture backs it up, leaving you licking your lips on the scented finish.' 93 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous