Bereche & Fils Grand Cru Ay 2015 (Disgorged October 2022)

Champagne authority Peter Liem writes that "among all Champagne villages, Ay is the most historically esteemed.. Today, its terroir is still just as storied, and its grapes are sought after by winemakers across the region." Generally speaking, it's a warmer terrain, and though the Bereche vines sit at higher, cooler altitudes, they are fully exposed to the sunnier south.

From a Grand Cru where Pinot Noir reigns supreme, Bereche's cuvee is sourced from less than a hectare of 50+-year-old vines in the parcels of Brise Pot and Froide Terre in Grande Vallee de la Marne, where thin topsoils (30cm at most) lie over dense Campanian chalk. The lion's share of the blend is Pinot Noir from Froide, with the balance Chardonnay from Brise Pot. Both parcels were picked on 14th September at 10.8% potential alcohol, "in perfect health", according to the brothers. As is the norm, slow ferments took place in barrel, and the wine spent 72 months on lees in bottle. Dosage was 4 g/L. Importer's notes.

'The 2015 Extra-Brut Ay Grand Cru captures all the richness of Ay and of this dry, sunny vintage. Racy and exuberant, the 2015 offers up an exciting mix of crushed red berry fruit, lemon confit, ginger, cinnamon and dried rose petals. The Ay is a blend of Pinot Noir from Froide-Terre and Chardonnay from Brise-Pot, co-fermented, with the Chardonnay lending notable freshness. That is especially evident on the lively finish. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2022.' 94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.