Seppeltsfield 21 year old Para Tawny 2004

A Para tawny from the 2004 vintage. I can smell this all day. It's constantly moving, like the shadow of clouds moving across a hillside, a play on light and shade, tension and release. Candied citrus fruits, grilled figs sprinkled with brown sugar, fresh dates, rancio, polished leather, mahogany, redcurrant paste, salted caramel, espresso, brandy snaps and toffee apple. It's fresh as a daisy, beautifully balanced and so long, with a sleekness and poised sweetness as it slowly retreats, condensing slowly into its end point. Time for another sip. Tremendous stuff.

97 pts, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion