Mount Mary Chardonnay 2020

Four clones, hand picked, 20% whole-bunch pressed, the balance crushed and destemmed. Matured in French oak (30% new) for 11 months. Typically refined and elegant, but isn't stand-offish. The Yarra Valley's calling card of chardonnay is its extreme length, built around natural acidity and citrus zest. Oak is part of the upbringing, but discreet, and the wine has a very long plateau ahead. 97 points, drink by 2040, James Halliday.