Luke Lambert Nebbiolo 2023
Lambert’s Nebbiolo block sits halfway up Denton’s northwestern slope, catching all available sunshine. There are six acres planted to a patchwork of six clones; Mat 3 accounts for half the acreage, with the balance comprising K6, Mat 9, 10, 230 and 111. The soils here—granitic sand over granite bedrock—provide a unique terroir for the Yarra and Nebbiolo, which in Luke’s words “always contributes plenty of bright red fruit and floral perfume along with gun-flint, graphite characters typical of a granitic soil profile”.
According to Luke, the “excellent growing season gave us a long and slow finish to the Nebbiolo harvest with very good hang time.” The wine itself is a touch riper, and the fruit flavours a darker shade of red compared to the most recent releases. Yet the song remains the same. Again, the Mat 3 clone brings the clout from its small berries and bunches, while the K6 layers in high-toned aromatics of anise, amaro bitter and dried red-flower prettiness.
Despite the musculature, there is no lack of poise and structure, which builds in the glass as the wine takes on air. It is perfumed and brooding with energy, mineral steel and long, complex length. When it all comes together—the right site, the right vine stock, and the variety’s mercurial talent—this is what great Nebbiolo from Australian soils look like. Luke recommends decanting if approached in the short-term. Wholesaler’s notes.
So pretty and lifted on the nose it had most of the team with their foot in Europe when we tasted it blind in the back of the shop. Beautiful definition of macerated strawberries and raspberries with floral elements and a savoury rock element behind. On the palate the fruit really sings with a hint of red musk, there's the pulse of that signature Nebbiolo acidity that runs through that leads to a svelte shape to the wine. It took me a second taste of the wine before I even noticed the tannin, ripe and soft and clearly in a supporting role. A great example of Australian Nebbiolo and why Luke has been garnering attention as one of the finest Nebbiolo winemakers in the country. Highly recommended. Cameron, FWC.
