Domaine Naturaliste 'Artus' Chardonnay 2023

While it always comes out as a bit of a powerhouse flavour-wise and in structure, this is backed up by fine acidity, driving this long. It also keeps the substantial flavours of savoury oak, creamed-honey lees and grapefruit in check. Some flinty, funky sulphides add an extra dimension of complexity as it continues to build on the palate. 96 points, drink 2025-2033, Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion.