Cullen 'Kevin John' Chardonnay 2023

Made from 100% dry farmed biodynamically certified Wente/Gin Gin clone planted between 1976 and 1988. Australian Chardonnay is so good. Now packaged in a lighter bottle weighing 360 grams, as opposed to the old one which was 560 grams. Very good. Well done. Now lets get rid of those 'flagship' (usually red, aspirational, and anachronistic) wines weighing in at nearly 1kg. As an aside, I taste nearly all wines from a Plumm Three No.3 Burgundy glass these days, such a pleasing and durable glass. For light whites and sparkling, I tend to use Gabriel glass.

Peach and dried pear, plenty of spice, cedar, brittle toffee and vanilla, cumquat, lime and white flower. It's a powerful expression of Wilyabrup Chardonnay, intense in acidity and flavour, it has spice and plenty of grip, lime nougat, a milk powder richness, and a bold finish of excellent length. Positively dripping with golden flavour and energy, but so very good. 96 points, drink 2025-2035+, Gary Walsh, WineFront.