By Jeremy Muller
On Thursday 9th of February, Five Way Cellars hosted Francis Egly and his daughter Clemence at the Cook's household, marking one of most fantastic producer dinner's we have been involved in. A combination of incredible wines, one's we thoroughly believe are at the top of the Champagne echelon, as well as the educational experience given by the lovely Egly pair left a lasting impression on both us and our customers that attended.
We drunk through their range from their Les Premices through to the 2013 and 2008 Millesimes. The quality throughout was undeniable again highlighting to us the detail the Egly family operates in. From fastidious farming to lieu-dit terroir expressions and patience, all rare commodities in the largely commercial Champagne region. As a style, the near inimitable fusion of power plus richness and precision yet no excess was definitive across all the cuvees, but in particular the Brut Grand Cru, V.P. and Blancs de Noirs.
The Egly family achieves the magical combination through picking the grapes at full ripeness allowing natural varietal flavour to be present rather than building interest through high dosage. Additionally, with the exception of the Les Premices, all the base wine is raised in old oak giving texture, complexity and roundness to the base product. And lastly their calling card is extended lees maturation which is balanced beautifully by the aforementioned proper ripeness. In all, every decision is made towards quality with no expense spared.
A great highlight of the tasting was Ian’s surprise bottles of Egly Ouriet Brut Grand Cru disgorged in 2016. Most drinkers consume these Champagnes too early, granted with fair enough reason as they are so delicious, but these bottles proved what extra complexity Egly wines can reach which some bottle age. Superbly complex, yet still energy vibrating through the wine – layers of secondary and tertiary notes where revealed. So as such please view them like most still wines of this price, not only can they be cellared but in most cases they should be.
We cannot more highly recommend these wines, do not view them in the lens of Champagne, yet rather amongst the best of any vinous delight. And if possible, please tuck some away as the only evolve to reach even higher levels. FWC.
We cannot more highly recommend these wines, do not view them in the lens of Champagne, yet rather amongst the best of any vinous delight. And if possible, please tuck some away as the only evolve to reach even higher levels. FWC.