As Sydney’s humidity finally evaporates and the evenings begin to cool down, Nebbiolo is a perfect wine to be welcomed back to the table with open arms.
Hailing from the northwest reaches of Italy, most notably in the region of Piedmont, Nebbiolo is a revered grape with a long history. Depending on the terroir (where it’s grown) and how the wine is crafted a divergent range of expressions are produced.
Nebbiolo is known for intense floral aromas such as violets and rose, bursting with pure red fruits and incredible complex sweet and savory flavours on the palate. Innate to the grape is a strong acid line and tannin that match with hearty food and allow the best wines to live for decades. With age, the fruit and colour morphs, revealing more delicacy and depth in the glass.
The following wines have all been enjoyed lately and show the quality and diversity that Italian Nebbiolo offers. If you’ve never had a Nebbiolo and want to dip your toe in, Autumn is a great time to start.
Sandro Fay Rosso di Valtellina 'Tei' 2023 $47/$42.30
From the exceptionally steep slopes of Valtellina which lies towards the Swiss border in the Lombardy region. 100% Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo. An alpine expression if you will, with higher elevation bringing a vibrant translucent red hue with floral, spice and candied red fruit. A bright acid line and very pristine tannins leading to great approachability without sacrificing on detail. Definitely a more lifted and brighter example of Nebbiolo than from the Piedmont. Worth exploring and great value!
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2023 $67/$60.30
The Produttori del Barbaresco is a historic co-operative winery, sourcing fruit from independent growers and creating the best wines from the Barbaresco region. “Langhe” is the broader area delimited for quality nebbiolo in the piedmont area and is where you will find wines ready to drink upon release and a business card for the house style of the producer.
La Ca' Nova Barbaresco 2019 $100/$90
2019 is regarded as a classic and ageworthy vintage, generally speaking across Piedmont, with wines able to develop good ripeness, structure and balance across most communes. The 2019 Barbaresco is a treat! exuding classic ripe strawberry, orange peel, dusty tannins and poised acidity. La Ca’ Nova also produces two single cru wines ‘Montefico’ and ‘Montestefano’ which are also worth seeking out. Drink now or hold.
Luciano Sandrone Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore 2022 $105/$94.50
The steep amphitheatre shaped vineyard of Valmaggiore in Roero is a unique terroir. Luciano accumulated vineyards from landholders over the years with a vision for this wine. Terraced and replanted at 8,000 vines per hectare (to decrease yields and increase quality) the site is much warmer than the Barolo zone with different weather patterns and much sandier soil.
The resultant wine is consistently defined by high toned, savory red fruit, fragrance and elegant tannins. Meticulously farmed and crafted, layers of complex aromas unveil themselves. Approachable now with incredible depth however will age gracefully. Not to be missed.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2021 $120/$108
This is likely the best vintage I’ve tasted of this wine. Dark cherry, raspberry, mint, sage and liquorice root, baking spices, and a whole lot of dried flower perfume. It’s medium to full-bodied, dense and ripe, packed with dark red fruit, something quite earthy and stony, especially with its deep and ferrous grainy tannin, and there’s black tea and floral mouth-perfume, fresh too, with a firm finish of outstanding length. In 2021 this standard wine is up to riserva quality. 96 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front.
2021 was an exceptional year in the Langhe as is clearly demonstrated by the gorgeous 2021 Barbaresco from Produttori. It boasts beautiful aromas of violet, rose, cake spice and mint that carry over to the elegant palate along with succulent red cherry. Crushed raspberry star anise. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it impeccably balanced. Made from blending Nebbiolo from different sites, this is the firm’s classic Barbaresco and is one of the greatest values in Italian fine wine.
96 points, Kerin O’Keefe.
Burnt orange liqueur, with a cut of darker dried fruits. The ripeness and density are centred. A driving spine of acidity underpins the wine alongside nervy rubbly tannin. Definitely Lithe and racy with an almost coal fire smokiness. Brooding and age worthy. Mitch Milicich, FWC
Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo 2020 $195/175.50
From the heart of Barolo township comes the revered expressions from the Giovanni Canonica. From his home and underground cellar he crafts a single site ‘Paiagallo’ cru which sees no chemicals on the vines. Traditional methods of large oak, no temperature control and long ageing without sulphur are employed to create distinct wines full of personality and interest. The 2020 Paiagallo is burly, a mix of earth, darker fruits, sage with gravelly tannins. Full and with verve, a few years in the cellar will help to tame the energy. These wines have a very small production annually and are hard to find.
Mitch Milicich, FWC