Domaine François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2019
This much-loved 100% Chenin Blanc is drawn from the second, later pickings across a range of Chidaine’s old Chenin plots (including the Clos du Volagray, Saint-Martin and Les Grillonnières) that have stony soils which are heavy in yellow limestone, or tuffeau. These vines range in age from 30 to 90 years and are always cropped at tiny yields. The wine was vinified in the most natural way possible: using native yeasts, then aged in 600-litre demi-muids for 10 months.
François Chidaine does not produce this cuvée every year, and when he does it’s a case of run, don’t walk. The 2019 gracefully combines mouth-watering succulence and floral elegance with ozone and wet chalk. It finished with 10 g/L residual (low for this wine—the 2020 has 14.8 g/L) and those grams are rendered almost imperceptible by the balancing mineral and saline energy that runs like an arrow through the length of the palate. After a year more in bottle, it’s so well integrated: expect great length, intensity, pulpy succulence and limestone cut. It sings on its own, or with some charcuterie, but will take you to another realm when paired with Southeast Asian flavours and textures. Importer's notes.