Gaba is Basque for evening – it was late in the day when Telmo and Pablo first walked this steep valley, whence they now make wine from 21 hectares. Gaba white is a fresh, unwooded wine, gently handled. There's a hint of lanolin and wax as usual for Godello, but lemon-melon-pear are the main flavours, particularly canned pear. Texture is slinky-creamy with mineral and a nip of fresh acid at the finish. Scott Wasley, The Spanish Acquisition.