Telmo Rodriguez 'Dehesa Gago' Tinta de Toro 2018
In Toro, Telmo and Pablo proudly work with Tinta de Toro(the local family variant of the Tempranillos), seeking to craft deft (read not big hot and heavy) expressions of the local cultivar. They work on the highest, poorest slopes with pebbly-sand soils that drain more easily within three pueblos: Arguijillo, Morales de Toro, and Villabuena.
Dehesa Gago was one of Telmo and Pablo's first wine labels, in fact. It is a joven-style, natural expression of local fruit structured by natural grape tannin and acid. The majority of fruit comes from chalky-limestone soils filled out with (really) big pebbles near Morales de Toro, just north of Toro itself. The wine is fermented in large concrete, steel, and old oak vats, and aged unwooded in stainless steel. It is made with minimal intervention, save for a touch of sulphur at bottling.
Now with 3 years under its belt, Dehesa Gago is in a great spot right now. Plenty of fruit and drive, with subtle development coming through - it really is an amazing wine. If you don't pour it by the glass... we'll drink it... all of it!
Glacé cherry and dark fruit tea, with touches of smoky brush, pepperminty and whole-of orchard balsalm and florals. There’s husky spice, with the powerful silt-clay soils of Toro are in clear evidence underneath. All lovely and exuberant, but the real point with this wine is just how delicate and pared back it is compared to the Toro norm. Unwooded (aged in concrete and old wood vats) it's not fruity, not raw, not heavy, just a beautifully moderated fruit riot organised on glorious, gravelly, grip-and-release fruit tannins. Simple and special, with spread and reach, never sweet, heavy nor lumpy. - Scott Wasley, importer (The Spanish Acquisition).