Disgorged November 2020.
2017 base with 50% reserve wine from 2014-2016. Together with Suenen’s single-vineyard offering (La Cocluette), these represent the only pure Oiry wines on the market. This is drawn from just 1.5 hectares split between five separate parcels. The vines are all planted in Oiry’s compact, white Campanian chalk soils. From Le Champ Braux planted in 1955 to La Cocluette planted in 1987 and 1999, the average age of the vines is now 45 years. These vineyards lie at the base of the slope where only a little topsoil sits above hard, chalky bedrock.
The combination of this chalk’s austere, mineral impact and Suenen’s low-yield/ripe fruit philosophy produces a scintillatingly tense, coiled and stony wine. “Tonic” is the word Suenen uses to refer to this wine’s unique personality. It’s a study in minerality—the wine is rocky, vibrant, saline and vibrantly fresh. At the same time, the outstanding 2017 vintage (combined with the superb viticulture) has delivered lovely ripe fruit that throws nectarine and even apricot blossom notes. Creamy depths (from the aging on lees) enfold the wine’s structural and mineral qualities and keep you coming back for more. In short, this is everything you would want from Grand Cru Côtes des Blancs, and represents a unique opportunity to taste Oiry's distinctive, rocky terroir.
The base wine was naturally fermented and aged for nine months in the same vessels—enamelled tank (65%) and six-year-old Burgundian oak barrels (35%). No fining, no filtration, no cold stabilisation. The wine was disgorged in November 2020 (magnums and jeroboams were disgorged in January 2021) after 26 months on lees, with three grams per litre.
“The forthcoming release of Suenen's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Oiry (2017 base) was disgorged in June 2020 with three grams per liter dosage. Mingling aromas of citrus oil, crisp green apple, white flowers and blanched almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with a pretty core of fruit and chalky grip on the finish.” 91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate