Prager Riesling Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd is a wine that really showcases the free-thinking, experimental and provocative side of Toni Bodenstein. Planted in 1990 in a high-altitude section of the Hinterseiber vineyard (literally bordering the forest at the top of the mountain), this was planted at an altitude between 440 and 460m. Many people doubted that the vineyard would be able to fully ripen Riesling. Over 30 years later, not only does the vineyard produce incredibly elegant and mineral wines, but while others have problems with over-ripening, the Bodenstein wines, even in hot vintages like 2003 and 2006, are balanced and elegant. Anytime you see the “Bodenstein" moniker, you should know that one of the points of the wine is to showcase genetic diversity. Bodenstein planted the vineyard with 15 different types of Riesling sourced from the Wachau as well as Germany's Rheingau, Mosel and Pfalz and France's Alsace. This is, year in and year out, one of the top Rieslings from Austria.
Kiwifruit, pink grapefruit, spice and green herbs. It’s powerful, and also quite exotic, juicy and chalky, a subtle savoury cheese twist character, slightly bitter quinine flavour, waxy but tight, with a very long finish laden with pith, lime zest and grip, and tingly acidity, and a celery crunch. X-Factor here. A little something that lifts it up and above. 96 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front August 2021