Josh Cooper Cope-Williams Romsey Chardonnay 2019

A sleeper vineyard in the Macedon Ranges that seems to have really started performing, or hitting a spotlight, in the last few years. Here’s a wine we’ll be talking about. More of the same seen from 2018 release, but perhaps more agile and flighty, in the best possible sense.

This is insanely delicious. It wins the millionth customer award where streamers and confetti fall from the ceiling. It’s the texture of Persian fairy floss, ok, that’s obscure, but it feels glassy, crisp, lacy at once, and delivers this high tensile crunch like the rim of a Zalto glass bitten off in your teeth. The flavours are saline, nutty, some green apple, a touch of natural yoghurt, but savouriness is the forte and acidity is the trump card. Boil this prose down and you have something so brilliantly drinkable, unique feeling and beautifully poised between its elements, while remaining expressive and kinda wild. Jeepers, onto something here. Drink 2020-2032. 96 Points – Mike Bennie, The WineFront.

My pick of the Chardonnays this year (although others here at the shop had other favourites). Cope-Williams appears to be the most complete of the three wines. It has it all, really. Mouth-coating texture and expanse across the palate, linearity through succulent acidity, an abundance of primary fruit that is happy to play only a supporting role to savoury, mealy elements that are delivered in waves of flavour. At once very serious but also open, generous and delicious. – Ches Cook, FWC.