Lamy makes three cuvées from this beautiful southeast-facing plot which sits behind the village cemetery. The Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1960, and directly behind, on the steeper slope, are the Chardonnay vines—planted 18 years ago at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare. At the top is the Haute Densité parcel (approx. 30,000 vines per hectare).
This is from the 14,000-vine-per-hectare parcel, although the 2018 includes some declassified Haut Densité fruit (20% of the total production) from vines too young to enter that blend. The soils here are a powerful white marl (chalky clay) terroir which always imposes its deep and structured character on the final wine. Another great value in the context of Burgundy prices today as the notes below make clear. Expect something exceptional in 2018.
“The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard is showing brilliantly, offering up a deep bouquet of white flowers, warm bread, citrus zest and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, multidimensional and concentrated, this is tensile and mineral, with racy acids and chalky structuring extract that purists will find irresistible. Lamy included some fruit from young vines planted at high density in this bottle this year.” 92-94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate.
“It is hard to imagine that anybody can be more meticulous than Olivier Lamy when you hear that he made five different passes through this vineyard to complete the picking – almost as if he wanted each berry at its optimum ripeness. The resulting wine offers a clear pale colour with a green tint. Steely backward nose, really intense on the palate, white fruit with a lemon twist, tightly coiled, certainly no suggestion of dilution here. The fruit stretches out brilliantly at the back of the palate. Maybe the best I know.” 92-96 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.