Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere 2017
This is another of the Lamy benchmarks and perhaps his most famous wine. The Clos is a specific site, enclosed by dry-stone walls, within the larger Chatenière vineyard in St-Aubin. Lamy has 1.25 hectares in the Clos and the vines here are 60 years old. For all intents and purposes, this is a monopole, as Lamy is the only grower able to bottle a separate wine from this site and to label it accordingly. Colin-Morey is the only other grower that has a small parcel and he blends it into his La Chatenière bottling. It’s a south-facing vineyard, set just back and around the bend from En Remilly and Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. It is worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% slope and incredibly rocky soils making tractor work too dangerous. This gradient and the southern aspect also ensure that the vines receive plenty of light while the rocky, limestone-rich soils (20 centimetres of rocky top soil over hard, compact limestone) give the wines a piercing minerality that perfectly offsets the low-yielding intensity. It’s another spellbinding example of Saint-Aubin that will knock the socks off most 1er Cru Chassagne and Puligny.
“Outstanding Top Value. A distinctly smoky nose features notes of matchstick, petrol and a plethora of citrus nuances and particularly lemon-lime. There is fine volume to the attractively textured and admirably concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the powerful, serious and built-to-age finish. Lovely.” 90-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 75