Hubert Lamy Bourgogne Blanc 'Les Chataigners' 2021

Lamy farms four small parcels on the white limestone soils of Les Chataigners. Tucked up at the far end of the village on the Finage de Saint-Aubin, this site is his highest and coolest vineyard, with vines planted in 1990 and 2008. The fruit is whole bunch-pressed and ferments spontaneously before being raised in older barrels. This is perennially one of the Cote's most impressive Bourgogne-level whites, and it is worth noting that this year's wine includes plenty of declassified 1er Cru fruit.

'From hill above St.Aubin - vines that are too high for the Cote d'Or label. Lots of 1er cru juice included in this vintage. Ooh, that's already really complex - there's already a really wonderful agrume complexity here. Silky width, complex, mineral, and really quite broad and concentrated - lovely, lovely wine and clearly a great Bourgogne.' Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report.