A juicier, more-approachable-in-youth expression. As time moves on can the wine keep up that frigid, rigid, tense, powerful line? Likely. Do palates change and shape the world around them? Maybe. Aside the esoterica, this release does feel a little different. Bolder, foggy in perfume with citrus blossom, aromatic yeasty notes, brown lime. Deeper in flavours of citrus, ripe apple, green herb, black currant, pumice-and talc minerality. It’s wider and fuller than expected in the palate, right down to a lingering, faint sweetness and mallow-like thing going on. Lovely, though, complex, yep, one for the cellar too. Good to get into now with its depth and character on show. Big one, done well. Drink 2020 - 2035. 94 Points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.